Here are some of the most exhilarating looks to recently grace the Autumn / Winter 2021 Couture Runway. Which are your favourites? All photos and designers' quotes selected from Vogue.
1. Alexandre Vauthier
Fusing vibes from Paris and Nevada, Vauthier's collection is dominated by black, with a sprinkle of crystals. His thought process behind this was that "black is an excessively Parisian code. French couture is all about the allure. [The crystals sparkle] like a night with a sky full of stars.”
2. Christian Dior
Featuring an abundance of soft, neutral colours and tactile fabrics, this collection combines delicate, sheer dresses with warm and cosy coats made of hand-made tweed. Some of the dresses were made using strands of silk which were braided by hand. Check out the dress with the ruffles which double as a fashion mask!
3. Elie Saab
Predominantly black and white, this collection features a mix of maxi gowns and suits. Prints are plentiful and range from polka dot to geometric and art deco. Lace, velvet, pussy bows, elbow-length gloves and leather boots all add to the drama of this collection.
4. Giambattista Valli
Tailoring meets fairy tale and capes grace all genders so that anyone can feel like a superhero. Some may love this collection for its whimsy and others may like the voluminous capes and dresses which will keep others at arm's length. The collection was inspired by the sinister and surreal vibe of American Horror Story, with Valli saying that "The past is very heavy and the future is very uncertain. You make no expectations. You just get ready. And you have this slight sense of danger—in a positive way—because you’re going out facing the unknown.”
5. Iris Van Herpen
In this breath-taking collection called Earthrise, Van Herpen collaborated with world-champion sky diver Domitille Kiger. Kiger may now be the first athlete to conduct an aerial performance in haute couture. Many materials were made of recycled plastic as Van Herpen collaborates with Parley For The Oceans, a place where creators work together to raise awareness of, and end, the destruction of our oceans.
6. Jean Paul Gaultier
This season's collection was created in collaboration with Chitose Abe of Sacai, the result of which is a magical hybrid of Gaultier's iconic looks with a refreshing Sacai twist. Details include Gaultier's blue and white top infused with satin organza and the conical bra from 1984 spliced into a man's tailored suit. Abe and Gaultier share love for perfection, tartan and refined punk so they were certain to be a match made in heaven.
Designed by Daniel Roseberry, this collection is true to the unique extravagance of the original Schiaparelli atelier. Sumptuous details include garments and jewellery adorned with gold eyes, ears and noses, a wedding dress made from 70 meters of taffeta and a black jacket embellished with pink, silk roses which was inspired by the 1930s' collaboration between Jean Cocteau and Schiap. This collection is truly a work of art.
Loved something you saw above?
If you were inspired by one, or more, collections and crave an affordable version, then the Luxury For Less service might be for you. Just send over a photo of the item you covet and you will receive an interactive PDF of inexpensive alternatives, available to buy right, now, for the look you dream of at a fraction of the price.
Whether you have treated yourself to some new summer clothes or you've had the same collection for years, it can be a challenge to think of fresh and new ways to pair garments and accessories together. Here are 5 great ways to switch your wardrobe up, inspired what what's on the street.
1. Tone down a glam dress
Statement dresses aren't just for special occasions. Pair with a casual bag and shoes for an exciting day look.
2. Go neutral
Mix and match garments, shoes and accessories that are all in earth tones. Have fun experimenting with different colour combinations as they will all compliment each other.
3. Skirt or dress? Both!
Can't decide whether to wear a dress or skirt? Layer a skirt over a slightly-longer dress for an instantly unique look. Consider how the tones, textures and prints of the two garments work together and how they sit when layered.
4. Layered shirt
Grab a plain shirt and layer a crop top or a bustier over the top. Make sure you're happy with how the shirt hangs under the crop top so that there aren't unwanted lumps or bumps.
5. Tailored tease
Hard and soft, feminine and masculine, serious and playful - a contrast always results in a hot look. Pair some down-to-business tailored trousers with a delicate top that has a plunging neckline and tactful fabric.
Want more inspiration?
If you feel like you have too many clothes but nothing to wear then you most likely just need a fresh perspective of what you already own. The Outfit Planner Lookbook is a magazine-style PDF planner of your wardrobe, organised into 20 looks to suit your current lifestyle.
A new fashion season has magically appeared, along with the gorgeous sunshine. Here’s a round-up of some of the key trends to grace the runway shows:
1. Bold garden-hued dresses: bold florals are always a spring thing but this season the emphasis is on bolder colours and impactful prints. Think dresses in all the bright colours found at the Chelsea Flower Show – sunflower yellow, pansy purple, nasturtium pink, gerbera red and stem green.
2. Shoulder & sleeve drama: the resurgence of the ‘80s bold shoulder is going nowhere and will only get bigger. Look out for origami or peaked shoulders and puff sleeves especially, whether for tops, dresses or coats.
3. Oversized boyfriend shirt: a shirt is a classic piece and a man’s shirt gives an edge. Elevate it to the next level this season with a femme twist, such as in girly colours such as pastel pink, delicate fabrics such as lace and lady-like cuts such as cropped at the waist.
4. Oversized jeans and trousers: the slouchy jogger (which was so 2020) has been elevated this season into loose denim and wide-legged trousers. High-waisted and wide-legged is the current silhouette, while the current mood is cool and comfy.
5. Cut-outs: This trend was big last season and, for now, it’s here to stay. Key areas of focus include the waist, hips, stomach and neck. This look is effortlessly suggestive and more subtle than flashing legs or cleavage.
6. Netting: A more dramatic trend to hit the runway, netting can be worn in the form of dresses, vest or as part of a layered outfit. This trend will add texture to any look. Pay close attention to underwear if it’s on show!
7. Glitter ball: What shines and sparkles all over? Someone who is fashionable this season. Like netting, sequins and shiny fabrics will get you plenty of attention. This look is especially hot when worn from head to foot, for example long dresses and two-piece suits.
Want to know how to wear these, and more, trends for your body shape and colouring? Sign up here to receive free and exclusive report 14 Trends for Spring / Summer 2021 – this insider review of the hottest trends for people who wear womenswear, with tips on how to make each work for your unique alchemy of body shape and colouring.
Below: Balmain, Victoria Beckham and Prada, all from Vogue. Click each pic for full collection.
There are five nominations shortlisted in every category of BIFA’s annual awards festival. Last week it was so exciting to see two films I’ve worked on included in BIFA's Raindance Discovery Award 2020 nominations.
The first is Perfect 10 which stole the judges hearts and won the award. Perfect 10 is directed by Eva Riley, produced by BFI iFeatures and stars Frankie Box and Alfie Deegan. I worked as a Costume Assistant Daily on this project, covering the costume department on set for a few days and being fortunate to work with the majority of crew and cast. This coming-of-age film takes gymnast Leigh on a risky adventure when she meets half-brother Joe and gets involved in his world of motorbikes and crime. Perfect 10 was also part of the 2019 BFI London Film Festival Official Selection. Check out The Guardian’s review here.
The second BIFA nomination was for Justine, directed by Jamie Patterson, produced by Jump Start Productions and starring Tallulah Haddon (Kiss Me First, Black Mirror: Bandersnatch) and Sophie Reid. For the project I was the Costume Designer. Costume Designers on independent productions tend to have the opportunity to cover many aspects of the costume department and for Justine this included everything from sourcing and fittings before filming to dressing and continuity on set. Justine is a LBGTQIA+ drama love story which centres around Justine, an alcoholic, who is disenfranchised by life but may find a ray of hope when she meets Rachel. Justine was also part of last year’s BFI Flare: London LGBTIQ+ Film Festival Official Selection which was unfortunately cancelled due to the current pandemic. Justine will be released on 5 March via www.curzonhomecinema.com so grab some popcorn, cosy PJs and have a watch. Check out a review by Curve Mag, the online lesbian community, here.
Jay Kamiraz was brutally attacked by a gang of homophobes when he was 17, which resulted in him being hospitalised, fighting for his life, and then homeless. In 2012 he had turned his life around, carrying the Olympic torch and winning the Pride of Britain award. This inspirational health transformation video shows that there are many decent people in this world who want to support and empower others, such as Eddie Hall, 2017 winner of World’s Strongest Man.
In this video, Eddie and friends help Jay get his confidence back, revealing his transformation during 6 weeks of intense exercise and strict nutrition. Eddie relates that he “had a lot of haters who said you can’t do it, you’re fat, you’re ugly; I used it as fuel – put it all in that fire in your belly, burn it up, get angry and put it in the gym.” Luke, Strength and Conditioning Coach, says “your scars show that you’re a fighter and a survivor”, reminding us that we should be proud of scars as they show us what we’ve been strong enough to overcome. Check out Jay’s power of mind over matter at the end of the video and why Eddie says “I lied to you because I knew it’s in your head.” I found this sentence was so powerful - how many times has your mind convinced you not to do something and when you finally do it you are surprised at just how easy it was? The improvement to Jay’s health, muscle tone and confidence after 6 weeks is so inspiring – he is positively glowing!
Empowerment and confidence can be strengthened from the inside over time, by sticking to exercise and health food plans or working through any issues in our mind. Empowerment and confidence can also be transformed quickly on the outside with the power of style for our body shape, size, colouring, lifestyle and personality. Abundance to confidence comes when we align what’s on the inside with what’s on the outside. Start your style journey here today for instant confidence because a wardrobe update is a lot easier than refusing cup cakes for a year!
“When you bring what is within out into the world, magic happens”
- Ralph Waldo Emerson.
The days are gradually getting longer, the sun is showing its pretty face and the sweet promise of spring is in the air. I'm so excited that it will soon be time to swap our heavy layers for something lighter and fresher. With that in mind, here is my compilation of the top 10 trends you'll be seeing in the shops and on the street very soon:
1. All beige - an unexpected trend as it tends to be associated with a safer and more mature audience, beige all over will be a big hit, as seen at Balmain, Burberry and Max Mara. This neutral shade will be especially popular for utility, tailored and glamorous looks. Add a small accent of a bold colour from the crayon spectrum to make it more exciting and current, whether as a bag, shoe or accessory. Style tip: hold various shades up to your face before committing to buy as some will wash you out and others will make you glow depending on your skin tone.
2. Lace reworked - for spring, lace will be chopped up and worked into sections of garments, rather than making up a whole piece. Seen at Erdem, Christopher Kane and Alexander Wang, lace will now be refreshingly edgy or slipped into masculine silhouettes.
3. Fluffy textures - fringe and feathers were all over the runway, whether as a trim to add extra dimension to a day look, or all over for evening luxe appeal. Givenchy, Loewe and Valentino were just a few designers to celebrate daily fluff.
4. Big hats - vintage vibes abound, this one brings to mind '70s summertime indulgence and '80s power dressing. Seen at Giorgio Armani, Chanel and Moschino, a big hat is a quick and easy way to make any outfit feel fierce. Style tip: consider the size of the hat compared to the size of your face, for instance a super-large brim will drown petite features.
5. Clashing prints - as with the 'all beige' trend, this look is mean to be worn all over but it's the polar opposite to beige's plain mood. Bold prints, in bold colours, are mish-mashed together, the more insane the better. Seen at Balenciaga, Dolce & Gabbana and Paco Rabanne.
6. Acid wash denim - I'm so happy that the '80s is here to stay for now! One of many ways the decade has been revived is with acid wash denim, as seen at Isabel Marant, Lemaire and Off-White.
7. Utility - make way for practical clothing that is comfortable and multi-functional; think pockets everywhere and a revival of cargo trousers. Alberta Ferretti, Sacai and Marine Serre were but a few designers to play with this trend.
8. Waistcoats - whether cropped and tailored or loose and over-sized, waistcoats will be a quick and easy way to update a basic outfit. Proenza Schouler, Tibi and Louis Vuitton demonstrate some of the ways to rock a waistcoat in spring.
9. Blazers - worn with casual mini skirts, dresses or eveningwear, blazers will be another way to instantly elevate an outfit and add major confidence. Seen at Gucci, Marc Jacobs and Miu Miu, some of the varied ways to rock a blazer will be oversized or in vibrant blocks of crayon shades.
10. Sequins - don't neglect that sequinned dress in a dusty corner of your wardrobe because this spring it will be on trend and can be worn as daywear, as well as eveningwear, as shown at the Ashish, Halpern and House of Holland runway shows.
Some of these trends will be incorporated into our Virgo Punk SS19 collection and I look forward to sharing more very soon!
It's that time of the year where it feels like winter will never end and, if you're anything like me, you just wanna hibernate. Venturing outside seems like a massive chore, getting layered up to brave the chill wind and long nights, though it is possible to be both warm and on-trend this season.
One of my favourite fashion bloggers is Jenny Mustard; she has her own unique style which is chic, minimal and sustainable. Here is one of her recent vids showing us how easy it is to look damn good while being perfectly cosy, making good use of pieces that a lot of us already have in our wardrobes. WARNING: you may find yourself going out more just so you can have fun trying these ideas out!
I especially love the double jacket tip, making use of those light jackets that usually get neglected at this time of year, as well as the jumper dress with the trending chain belt. Which tips are you going to incorporate next time you brave the cold?
Introducing the new Vintage French campaign which I had the pleasure of being involved with recently. Neil Dawson's agency and Photographer Alex Bamford cooked up the genius idea of a mime expressing sheer ecstasy at the opulent range of furniture to be found at Vintage French by opening drawers, leaning on foot stools and so on though of course you can't SEE the furniture because that would make a mime's job redundant! The photos were given an aged effect when retouched which really works with the brand's USP of selling aged and magical pieces. The inspiration for the mime himself was Marcel Marceau who was a French actor and mime artist from the 1940s; our Vintage French mime therefore had a costume inspired by Marcel's look, down to the flower in his hat. The top tended to distort and bunch up while actor Dom skilfully changed pose and so HMUA Ela kindly assisted me in sewing brave Dom's top to his trousers so that the outfit would behave while moving. I always love the result when a group of creatives put their heads together. Click here for a related press release from Vintage French.
Gaultier's Autumn 2018 collection is possibly my favourite of the season. The French genius has reinvented the tuxedo in ways you could never imagine. Fusing sumptuous textures, such as velvet and feathers, with crisp black and white and then adding a twist of both the East and a cyberpunk vibe, he has created a collection that has to be viewed and savoured several times to really take in how very clever it all is. Gaultier's AW18 collection also blurs the lines between the genders which makes it even more current, exciting and accessible to everyone. Here are just a few of my favourite looks (click on image to view full-size), all from Vogue.com where you can view the whole collection: www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-couture/jean-paul-gaultier
I was excited to work on a mock news pilot for Channel 4. Produced by Electric Ray, it looks at current affairs in a new and random way, perfect if you enjoyed watching Brass Eye or Spitting Image. It's available between July and August - www.channel4.com/programmes/news-crack/ Which sketch is your favourite?