autumn 2022 couture runway shows
The Autumn / Winter 2022 couture shows have just dropped. Let's take a closer look at some of the creative genius of the sartorial wonders on the runway this month.
The house of Dior worked with Ukrainian artist Olesia Trofymenko to celebrate the intricacies of embroidery found in folk costumes from Ukraine. Together, they decided to use the Tree of Life as the theme for the collection, a symbol found in Ukrainian folklore. Folk costume details include a colour palette incorporating pastel neutrals, maxi and midaxi silhouettes, hand-smocking, dresses that resemble dirndls and delicate blouses with big, puffy sleeves.
Iris van Herpen
This Dutch fashion guru uses 3D printing to create wearable technology. Her inspiration for this collection was to look back to the 8th century poem Metamorphoses by Ovid, so that she could look forward. Of her inspiration, Iris told Vogue, "The collection is very future-oriented, inspired by post-humanism, by transforming identities, the metaverse. Those poems are so timeless. We are still facing those same questions: Who are we beyond our physical bodies? Where are we going as human beings?” Aren't these designs just breath-taking?
Jean Paul Gaultier
Balmain's designer Olivier Rousteing is the third designer to recreate Gaultier's iconic looks in his own style. This collection celebrates some of Gaultier's most memorable moments, such as repurposed denim, Breton-striped jumpers, corsets and the Le Male fragrance bottle corsetry. Gaultier was Rousteing's inspiration as a child, breaking many barriers for him. Rousteing told Vogue, "He was ahead of his time about freedom of expression. Today, we talk about inclusivity, we talk about diversity, we talk about breaking boundaries, we talk about no binaries, no gender. Obviously, Jean Paul was the first one to do it.”
Artistic Designer Daniel Roseberry created this collection from the idea of people who had been inspired by Schiap herself. Roseberry told Vogue of his conversation with Christian LaCroix, saying "“We talked about color, we talked about volume. We talked about [Lacroix’s native city of] Arles, and for him it meant black bulls, white horses, and the gold of the sun." This inspired Roseberry to recreate the mood of Lacroix's debut collection in 1987 which incorporated matador hats, bustles and toreador embroidery. This was combined with the impeccable tailoring that Elsa Schiaparelli herself wore. Roseberry told Vogue that the collection is all about "sensual body-conscious and body-obsessed eveningwear, everything built around the bustier and the corset.” This led to seductively-plunging necklines. The general vibe of this collection is modern romance.
Viktor & Rolf
This collection is a contrast of two halves, first featuring rigorous and dramatically-structured necklines and collars, followed by clouds of soft ruffles. Designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren told Vogue, "We liked the idea of men’s clothes that don’t fit, a masculinity that doesn’t fit. And then we change it to make it fit." Half-way through the show, the Dutch duo went on the runway and changed a model, revealing the process of dismantling the rigid collar structure and pulling drawstring cords to alter the silhouette of the jacket. This linked the first half to the second half, as the same suits and blouses were used twice, giving a completely different mood the second time, thanks to the genius tweaks demonstrated by Viktor and Rolf themselves.
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